Batu Caves and the sacred lance

As I write this article, it is 21 January 2019, also known as Thaipusam Day….a time of extreme importance to the South Indian Hindu community of Malaysia and Singapore. This day is devoted to Lord Murugan, the son of Shiva and Parvati in the Hindu pantheon and is marked with sacrifice and a day long procession up to the limestone caves called “Batu Caves”.  This day commemorates the gift of the Vel, a sacred lance to Lord Murugan from his mother to destroy evil. Throngs of devotees pledge vows by carrying milk and some pierced with metal spikes all the way from the city to the caves. It is said that those who perform penance on this day obtain their wishes fulfilled and feel no pain from the spikes pierced in their skins. Stories abound of miracles of the impossible that happened to staunch devotees that inspire them to return to the caves every Thaipusam to give thanks and receive grace. Read here: https://www.thestar.com.my/news/nation/2003/01/14/penang-devotee-grateful-to-deity-for-three-miracles/

The caves themselves are said to be 400 million years old but are mainly visited in the month of Thai in the Hindu calendar. I have been to the caves more than 10 times whenever I am in Malaysia, but mostly off peak periods in order to explore the caves better away from the crowds of tourists. In the darkness of the caves, bats and wild macaques take shelter from prying humans.  To reach the caves, you’ll need to climb 272 steps – what you will find is the sacred Vel – symbolic divine weapon of the God Murugan kept in a vaulted altar inside the first temple. The Vel is said to be brought from original settlers from India in the late 1800s and originally made of gold – but now may have been replaced with a brass version. The Vel itself although purely symbolic is said to hold the source of power to the caves.

I thought it would a good day for an excursion to the caves since I’ve read in the local newspapers that the stairs have been just re-painted a myriad of colours and I intended to climb the newly painted historical stairs.

During off peak seasons, the area is usually tranquil and I wouldn’t get in the way of the masses. But for good measure, I took with me some nuts and fruits to fend off hungry and curious macaques and a small bottle of fresh milk in case the occasion calls for it (milk is a pre-requisite in most Hindu rituals as a gift of thanks to the deities).  

As I expected, there was no congestion when I got to the top as I climed breathlessly up. I thought the temples would be closed as it was a non-occasion that day, but in the distance I heard the chantings of “Vel Murugan” and was pleasantly surprised to see that the side temple containing the Vel was opened to a small crowd of devotees. What’s more, the priest was performing a ritualistic bathing the Vel with milk or “Abishegam”, performed only during special times in the caves apart from Thaipusam.

So it seems I have conveniently walked in at the right time and was actually the last person to offer my gift of milk (which I coincidentally had with me).

Not a major miracle perhaps, but I couldn’t help feeling thankful just for the opportunity of having glimpsed this sacred lance of all days.

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Interesting fact: Why are the caves dedicated to Lord Murugan ? The founder of the cave temple, an Indian trader named K Pillai was apparently inspired by the entrance of the cave which resembled the spear shape of the Vel lance and so dedicated the shrine to the deity in 1890.